MF Supporter Reports on the 2006 Climbing Season from Nepal

Hi, Scott.

I am in Kathmandu now, it’s warm and dry and calm. In fact, the weather is unusually good for this season, when in years past it has been cold and rainy at this time. It seems they have been having an unexpectedly warm and dry climate for the last 18 months or so. One could even characterize it as a drought. Is the old global warming beginning to make its mark?

On the flight in yesterday, I saw a surprisingly clear view of Nepal's 8000 metre peaks, seen from east to west: Kangchenjunga (3rd highest mountain in the world), Makalu (5th highest), Lhotse (4th highest), Everest (1st highest), and Cho Oyu (6th highest). I think it was one of the best airplane views I have ever had of the Himalaya. We thought we could see Pumori (our current objective), but weren’t sure, as from our perspective flying up at 9000 metres above India and Nepal, Pumori is relatively dwarfed by the sea of peaks around it.

Here in Kathmandu, it has just been Buddhist New Year and the famous Hindu Shivaratri festival all at the same time, so everyone looks relaxed and happy, and it appears not much work is getting done. It might be even more laid back than usual. On the drive in from the airport yesterday, we saw quite a few groups of people parading around, waving flags, holding banners, chanting, praying, and playing music. Nepal may be having political struggles, but it’s certainly not very apparent when you wander around the streets of Kathmandu.

In one busy section of town where many people were out on the street, our driver and local agent, who is himself from one of Kathmandu's old established families, pointed out several foreign dignitaries wandering around in the streets, probably walking to have their lunch at a famous 5 star hotel restaurant in the embassy district. This small group of mainly white men in suits and ties looked a bit out of place next to the Nepalis wearing their Saris and Dotis and carrying handbags filled with vegetables, going about their business. The dignitaries were walking slowly, gesturing and laughing.

Our driver, who seemed to know all of the dignitaries in the group, pointed out several top level embassy staff. We did not see anything that looked like a policeman, security, or bodyguard within a half kilometre of them. Either the embassy officials on their lunch break were walking with security agents who were extremely well camouflaged as being very relaxed, smiling and laughing and enjoying the day, or they were feeling quite relaxed about the Nepal security situation at the moment. That may seem a bit of an unexpected surprise, as these same embassies have been busy crafting frightening announcements to folks back at home warning them that Kathmandu is unsafe.

Do you suppose that is their day job; to please the folks back at home hungry for bad news, and when they are on lunch break, they just relax and enjoy life? As ever, it seems that Nepal is a country of contrasts.

Thank you very much. I look forward to hearing from you and working with you to help mountain people everywhere. Best Regards.

Yours Sincerely, Dan